Mount Mera

Mera Peak (6,475m/21,246ft) is the highest of Nepal's designated 'trekking peaks'. By its standard route, it is also the highest peak in Nepal that can be climbed without prior mountaineering experience.

It was first climbed on 20 May 1953, by J.O.M. Roberts and Sen Tenzing, following what is now the standard route from the Mera La. The mountain lies to the south of Everest, dominating the watershed between the wild and beautiful valleys of the Hinku and Hongu.

By the standard route, an ascent is technically straight-forward, although heavy snow, bad weather or crevasse fields can all make the expedition demanding. For a straight-forward but spectacular wilderness experience, combined with outrageous views across the high Himalaya, this is one of my favourites.

The pictures that follow come from my expedition in April 2000. The expedition was partly intended as acclimatization for Lhotse. We reached the high camp, before turning back as one member was exhausted. I then continued on to Lhotse.

The Trek | The Climb

Camp 1, a few hours walk from the airport at Lukla.

Day 2 on trek:

Crossing the Zatrwa La (4600 m), from the Lukla valley into the Hinku valley.

There is a longer way in, via Chutok, Pangkongma and Kurke. This crosses the Pangkongma La at 3187m.

Camp 2, at Tulikharka (4200m) on the far side of the pass.

Day 3 on trek:

Descending into the Hinku valley. Like the Hongu further up, the Hinku is virtually uninhabited. There are no lodges for trekkers, and teams need to be self-sufficient.

It is a little visited and as yet unspoilt region, and is one of the great pleasures of the expedition.

Camping at Tashing Ongma (3600m).

Day 4 on trek:

Walking up the Hinku valley. The snowy triple summit of Mera Peak is visible in the furthest distance. An attempt via this south face is only for the true hard men.

Our fourth camp was at Tangnag (4,360m).

Day 5 on trek:

Walking from Tagnag to Base Camp.

Looking down onto the site often used as the base camp for Mera Peak's standard route, Khare (4900m).

Climbing the ridge above base camp towards the Mera glacier and Mera La (5425m).

The Mera La campsite. Some teams put a last camp here. Others, like ourselves, put in a High Camp.
You can cross the Mera La, turn left up the Hongu valley and cross into the Khumbu valleys via the Amphu Labtsa (5780m) or the Mingbo La (5817m).

Left: on the climb up to High Camp, with Everest, Nuptse and Lhotse in the background.

Right: High Camp, 5800 m - a brilliant setting, with amazing views. This was our high point, as one of our team was now dangerously exhausted.

Left: descending from High Camp, the summit at top right.

Right: Dead ahead - Chamlang (7319m). There are no shortage of grand neighbours to inspire future trips.

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